March Love Letter

Madrid has just suffered the worst winter in recent memory. A rare snowstorm blanketed the city in early January, followed by a bitter cold snap, a teasing warm spell, and another dump of snow that quickly turned into drenching cold rain. This made all madrileños dream of March, springtime, and terraza season.

Terrazas are a Spanish institution. Found in every barrio and pueblo, they can be dozens of tables spread out by the side of a serene plaza, or two or three cramped spaces along a busy sidewalk with traffic roaring by just a few steps away. Spaniards tend not to socialize within the home, so meeting someone at a terraza is the most common way to catch up with friends.

The popular Plaza Mayor (Metro: Sol) has several large terrazas. It’s a broad plaza filled with street entertainers and surrounded by brightly painted historic buildings, so there’s plenty to look at, but it’s also Tourist Central. Just a couple minutes’ walk south and a bit west you’ll come to the much more serene Plaza Conde Barajas and the little winding lanes all around it. Further afield I recommend Plaza Olavide (Metro: Quevedo), a circular plaza with lots of trees and a playground in the center.

Some terrazas offer meals, while many only have tapas. Most people order wine or beer. I also suggest granizado de limón, crushed ice and lemon juice, which is the most refreshing drink imaginable in hot weather.

Madrid may be a bustling European capital, but it’s best seen at a slow pace. Admire the greenery in the capital with the most trees in Europe; savor the taste of a fine Rioja or Ribera del Duero; and take in the sight of attractive Spaniards in spring fashions. One of the best things about life in Madrid is you don’t have to do anything in particular to enjoy it.

Sean McLachlan