In This Issue:

• At the Top: Hot Damn! Summer In (or near) the City
• The World’s Best: Outdoor Dining
• Ins and Outs: Top Five New Recommendations
• The Urbie Awards: Las Vegas
• Alan’s View - On The Road: Tahiti

At the Top: Hot Damn! Summer In (or near) the City

Whether you are thinking about a long-awaited vacation to a world-class city, or playing catch-up on work at home, this month’s issue of Night+Day’s e-letter will help you plan the end-of-summer you deserve.

Our local writers hone in on the
Best Weekend Getaway Hotels,
all within 100 miles of the world’s coolest cities. But with the help of our latest recommendations (Ins and Outs) for restaurants, nightlife, hotels, and attractions in each citiy, along with a list of the Best Outdoor Dining spots—the best patios, verandas, courtyards, and decks—you may decide not to leave town at all.

Speaking of cool cities: We are proud to announce that this year’s Las Vegas Urbie Award, which recognizes the movers and shakers who make us want to be urbanistas, goes to Cirque du Soleil, the unique performing troupe that dominates the entertainment scene in Las Vegas and never fails to transport us to another world.

Looking for more exotic travel ideas? Our intrepid publisher, Alan Davis, takes us behind the scenes of his recent trip to Tahiti, one of the world’s most remote and luxurious outposts,
in On the Road.

Time for you to get movin’ and shakin’—Labor Day is just around the corner!

THE WORLD’S BEST Outdoor Dining

The view might be of the skyline, the surrounding coastline, a romantic interior courtyard, or simply your date backlit by the cityscape. Whatever the venue, summer is the time to dine outdoors, catch a breeze, and relax as if you are on vacation, even if you’re in the city you call home.

CHICAGO • PERENNIAL

The Draw: In addition to widely being considered one of the top 100 restaurants in the country, Perennial also manages to pull off a near miracle in its combination of casual and luxurious elements, both on the menu and in the space.
The Scene: The outdoor dining space mimics that of a decorated backyard terrace, where large glass panels open onto a stone patio surrounded by natural wood beams, blooming trees, and views of grassy Lincoln Park. Enjoy duck confit as you toast the view of a dusky Chicago skyline.
Hot Tip: The patio is a hot commodity—and a tiny one. Though the restaurant boasts online reservation options, beware it cannot guarantee an outdoor spot.

The Draw: Wynn has the only on-Strip golf course, and this club-cum-steakhouse perches directly above the 18th hole.
The Scene: The Country Club’s location, which is somewhat of a walk from the casino floor, makes this restaurant something of a secret spot, popular for power lunches, as well as with celebs hoping to maintain a low profile. Think leather banquettes, wood paneling, and plaid carpeting.
Hot Tip: On Sundays the restaurant hosts a Big Easy jazz brunch.
The poached eggs with barbecued pork are a must.

The Draw: The capital’s most elegant outdoor cafe is situated just steps from the White House, on the cusp of the lively Penn Quarter. Other cafes may claim Parisian ambience, but this one delivers, with its sublime bistro fare and its views of the city’s sophisticates on parade.
The Scene: Partly shielded from traffic by little Pershing Park, the cafe’s wide patio offers cushioned seating at round tables beneath blue umbrellas.  A cross-section of Washington surrounds you, including diplomats staying at the Willard, romancing couples, and theatergoers (the National Theatre is close by).
Hot Tip: The terrace cafe is lovely anytime, but it’s most enchanting at night when street lamps, moonlight, and illuminated grand facades—particularly the Willard’s, which is right next door—cast a romantic glow over this stretch of Pennsylvania Avenue.

Also discover the Best Outdoor Dining in LA   MEX   MIA   NO   NY   SF   TOR

INS and OUTS (NIGHT+DAY’S Latest Recommendations)

LOS ANGELES • GOAL • Bar

Scoring a prized leather booth at this upscale Mid-Wilshire sports bar may be harder than snagging Lakers floor seats. In LA, exclusivity breeds desirability, which is why you might find Leo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire, and the whole Entourage crew watching the game here on one of 13 flat-screens instead of at Staples Center. full review
Mon–Sat noon–midnight (hours vary during football season).
8334 W. Third St. (S. Flores St.), 323-655-5955

MIAMI • MIA AT BISCAYNE • Lounge
miabiscayne.com
A buzzing nightlife scene in downtown Miami—not South Beach? Mia is the latest mainland hot spot to offer a lounge scene and entertainment into the wee hours. The good-looking crowd enjoys edible cocktails like the Cuba libre (dark rum gelée, Coca-Cola granizado, lime espuma, and Pop Rocks) and mystical witches’-brew-like nitrogen concoctions. full review
Mon–Tue 11am–2am, Wed–Fri 11am–5am, Sat 6pm–5am.
20 Biscayne Blvd. (Flagler St.), 305-642-0032

NEW ORLEANS • MIKE’S ON THE AVENUE • Fusion Restaurant
mikesontheavenue.com
In the 1990s, fusion cuisine was the word and Mike Fennelly was the hottest chef in town. At Mike’s on the Avenue, he blended Asian, Southwest, and local flavors into a cuisine that earned him a spot on the cover of Food & Wine magazine as a “chef to watch.” And then he disappeared. But this year, Fennelly returned to the spot where he first made his mark. The airy space is as white as an art gallery and decorated with Fennelly’s semi-abstract paintings. full review
Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–10:30pm, Sat 5:30–10:30pm.
$$ Lafayette Hotel, 628 St. Charles Ave. (Girod St.), 504-523-7600

NEW YORK • TOP OF THE STRAND • Hotel Bar
strandnyc.com
Space is at a premium in New York, which means that rooftops are prime real estate. The latest lofty spot to open in Manhattan is Top of the Strand, which crowns the sleek Strand Hotel. A retractable glass roof keeps revelers warm even on chilly nights, and views of the brightly lit Empire State Building are spot-on. full review
Mon–Thu 5pm–midnight, Fri–Sat 5pm–1am, Sun 5–11pm.
33 W. 37th St. (Sixth Ave.), 212-448-1024

TORONTO • LA PERLA BAR AND CANTINA • Mexican Restaurant
milagrorestaurant.com
A relaxed traditional cantina, this new second-story bar on Queen Street West is hoping to convince the late-night crowd that they should be indulging in Mexican delicacies such as tortas (sandwiches with roast lamb or pulled pork) and Baja fish tacos, as well as a unique list of Mexican beers and 100 percent pure agave tequilas. full review
Thu–Sat 10pm–2am, $$ 783 Queen St. W. (Bathurst St.), 416-366-2855

The Night+Day Promise
Night+Day writers and editors use the same high standards in selecting and researching venues to be included in our Ins and Outs updates as we do for our books. Our local correspondents determine which new hot spots are the real deal and which are simply hype—just as you’d expect from Night+Day—to provide the kind of reliable information you needto make the best possible choices.

Since Cirque du Soleil arrived in Vegas in 1992, its combination of daring feats, spectacular costumes, and state-of-the-art custom-sets, has wowed audiences. The Quebec-based troupe is to the 21st century what Ringling Brothers was to the 19th century: This is what today’s circus looks like. And while there are still clowns, jugglers, and variety acts, the similarities stop there. Las Vegas’ seven Cirque du Soleil shows, from the Beatles-themed Love to the naughty, adults-only Zumanity, are extravagant masterpieces that have come to epitomize Vegas entertainment.

Cirque du Soleil started in 1984, with about 20 performers touring Quebec in what was intended to be “a dramatic mix of circus acts and street entertainment.” When the group made its debut in Sin City eight years later, it was still something of a struggling start-up, a group of contortionists, street performers, and acrobats performing under a blue and yellow big top. But with the opening of Mystere just a year later, the nouveau cirque had officially arrived. Today, the company employs 1,200 performers in more than 50 different countries. In Vegas alone, 450 performers have put on 22,271 shows for more than 33 million guests in the past 18 years.

While there are common elements in each performance, every show is different. The original, Mystere, is most like a traditional circus show, with strong men and an oversized baby-cum-ringmaster, while the newest, Viva Elvis, is more of a musical—a tribute to the King, with acrobatic interludes. And then there is “O” where variety acts meet artful splish-splashing and death-defying leaps into a 1.5 million-gallon pool. From a set perspective, Ka is perhaps the most spectacular, with two moving platforms, five stage lifts, 3,300 lights, and an 1800-pound boat.

The company’s founder, Guy Laliberte, a Quebecois accordion player and fire-eater-turned-billionaire-poker-player, has said that the circus is a great equalizer: “You can have all kinds of people forgetting about where they come from, forgetting their political differences, forgetting about their differences of color, and just being entertained and enjoying the same thing at the same moment.” Which is not so different from what Vegas is all about.

Although I’ve been publishing, editing, and writing travel advice for more than 10 years, I still appreciate the occasional reminder as to why I do it, and in particular, why we at Night+Day Guides say, “Right Place. Right Time.
It Matters.”

Having just come back from Tahiti, which is both the largest island in French Polynesia and shorthand for Bora Bora and Moorea, the two nearby islands that make this part of the world bucket-list worthy, I can see why people might think that time, or timing, is irrelevant. After all, this is paradise, beautiful any time of year, right?

Papeete, on the island of Tahiti, is the capital and only real city in French Polynesia; there are 8-hour nonstop flights from Los Angeles on Air France and Air Tahiti Nui. It is south of, and in the same time zone, as Hawaii. Papeete is the governmental, commercial, and population center of the islands, and most certainly not paradise. However, you will get to check it out for yourself, because it is nearly impossible to make connecting flights in either direction between the U.S. and Moorea or Bora Bora without stopping overnight there.

Moorea, an easy 30-minute ferry ride from Papeete, is visible from Tahiti. This view of what many believe to be South Pacific’s Bali Hai is perhaps the highlight of a stay at the Intercontinental Tahiti, the only truly first class hotel on the island. The ferry is a short walk from Papeete’s daily market, a colorful display of fish, fruit, handicrafts, and pearls.

Who am I to argue with Arthur Frommer, who has named Moorea the most beautiful island in the world? The 45-minute drive from the ferry terminal to the Intercontinental Moorea was breathtaking, in part because we arrived just before sunset. There are several hotel choices in Moorea, but again the IC stands out–especially now, since it has just been remodeled, including a new pool and beach area and stunning bungalows and villas. You pay dearly for an “overwater premium bungalow,” but I have not experienced anything that compares. You look out on water, behind you is beautiful Mount Rotui, and beneath you are some of the world’s most gorgeous fish. If you want to know what it would be like to swim in an aquarium, step right off your deck into the water. Two nights were not enough here.

If you didn’t know better you’d think we were on an Intercontinental fam tour (you know, the freebies they give to tour operators and travel writers), because after the one-hour flight to Bora Bora and a 30-minute boat ride (all hotel transfers are by boat on this island), we arrived at the Intercontinental Bora Bora Thalasso. In Bora Bora the IC has stiff competition from the St. Regis, the Four Seasons, Hotel Bora Bora (Aman), Bora Bora Lagoon Resort (Orient Express), Pearl, Le Meridien, Sofitel, and even Hilton. I was only able to personally tour the St. Regis, but I ended my stay confident that the IC was at least equal to all the others. The formula for all the hotels is pretty much the same: built on motus (small islands), with overwater bungalows, a formal and a casual restaurant, bar, pool, beach, spa, and the extraordinary lagoon and view of Mount Otemanu centered on the main island.

My wife kept saying, as we would go in and out of the lagoon from our bungalow deck, “This must be the largest swimming pool in the world”! Fish were not as plentiful in this water, about five feet deep, in part we think because the water was absolutely clear and thus provided no protection.

Don’t go to Tahiti for the food. For the most part it is fish and it is good, but nothing to write home about. Two restaurants add a certain fun factor: Le Coco’s in Moorea, with its octopus curry served in a coconut and skewers of ten jumbo shrimp; and touristy Bloody Mary’s in Bora Bora begins with a description of the great selection of very fresh fish and meats available and set out on an ice-packed display. All else about the meal is pretty basic, including the sand floor. On the other end of the spectrum is Lagoon Restaurant by Jean-Georges at the St. Regis Bora Bora. Unless you are staying at the hotel, the logistics are tricky—you’ll need a water taxi, which will cost around $50, and the property limits access to non-guests. Given that everything in Moorea and Bora Bora is expensive, the taxi cost shouldn’t stop you from enjoying an incredible meal. We chose haura (local swordfish) tartare and bacon-wrapped shrimp, despite seeing caramelized foie gras with lychee and passion fruit on the menu. The uravena (oilfish) entrée must have jumped out of the lagoon through some sort of heating device right onto our plates.

With all the research I had done, I still couldn’t be sure that I was hitting all the high marks, so I did something I rarely do–I hired a consultant. Kleon Howe is actually a travel planner who specializes in the South Pacific, and he will consult for an hourly fee. He has the kind of knowledge our writers have in their respective cities. When you have a preference for sunset view over sunrise, Kleon knows which rooms at which hotels to choose.

If you do the Intercontinental thing, sign up for the Ambassador program. For $200 you’ll get room upgrades (this can make a big difference in terms of view), but most importantly a free weekend night, which in Tahiti will save you at least $600.

Perfect temperature for both air and water, world-class spas, world’s largest swimming pool, great snorkeling, spectacular views–what does timing matter?

We had planned to go in late May, but illness pushed the trip back to our only available time, early July. July happens to be heiva (festival) time, a month-long celebration featuring singing and dance competitions. This is not like Carnival in Rio or Trinidad; there is no parading in the streets. The performances are usually on the weekends and, unlike the shows at Tiki Village in Moorea or at many of the hotels, these feel like the real deal, involving over 100 performers in a typical dance group. While the main events are in a small stadium in Papeete, there are also performances on some of the islands, like Bora Bora, where the show took place on a sandy soccer field.

The traditional dance is often compared to hula, but these women shake their hips at a speed that might be considered illegal. (In fact, it was abolished by British missionaries in the early 19th century.) There are no sets, and the only thing elaborate is the feathered costumes. For the best description of the program I’ve found, visit thetahititraveler.com. These spectacles are emotional, exhilarating, sexy, fun, and unique. It’s an experience you can only get in
Tahiti in July. Right Place. Right Time. It Matters.