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 As executive editor of the Night+Day series, and as someone who has spent a lifetime in travel, I certainly influence our selections and recommendations. But our guidebooks reflect a collaborative effort involving local writers and experienced editors. So I welcome this opportunity to share my very personal views and experiences. I sincerely hope you find them somewhere between interesting and extremely helpful (life-altering is probably too much to ask). As always, I very much welcome your comments. Click here to send me an email.  |
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HOME » WORLD TRAVELER » ALAN’S VIEW
July 2010
Having just come back from Tahiti, which is both the largest island in French Polynesia and shorthand for Bora Bora and Moorea, the two nearby islands that make this part of the world bucket-list worthy, I can see why people might think that time, or timing, is irrelevant. After all, this is paradise, beautiful any time of year, right? Papeete, on the island of Tahiti, is the capital and only real city in French Polynesia; there are 8-hour nonstop flights from Los Angeles on Air France and Air Tahiti Nui. It is south of, and in the same time zone, as Hawaii. Papeete is the governmental, commercial, and population center of the islands, and most certainly not paradise. However, you will get to check it out for yourself, because it is nearly impossible to make connecting flights in either direction between the U.S. and Moorea or Bora Bora without stopping overnight there. Moorea, an easy 30-minute ferry ride from Papeete, is visible from Tahiti. This view of what many believe to be South Pacific’s Bali Hai is perhaps the highlight of a stay at the Intercontinental Tahiti, the only truly first class hotel on the island. The ferry is a short walk from Papeete’s daily market, a colorful display of fish, fruit, handicrafts, and pearls.
If you didn’t know better you’d think we were on an Intercontinental fam tour (you know, the freebies they give to tour operators and travel writers), because after the one-hour flight to Bora Bora and a 30-minute boat ride (all hotel transfers are by boat on this island), we arrived at the Intercontinental Bora Bora Thalasso. In Bora Bora the IC has stiff competition from the St. Regis, the Four Seasons, Hotel Bora Bora (Aman), Bora Bora Lagoon Resort (Orient Express), Pearl, Le Meridien, Sofitel, and even Hilton. I was only able to personally tour the St. Regis, but I ended my stay confident that the IC was at least equal to all the others. The formula for all the hotels is pretty much the same: built on motus (small islands), with overwater bungalows, a formal and a casual restaurant, bar, pool, beach, spa, and the extraordinary lagoon and view of Mount Otemanu centered on the main island. As my wife kept saying, as we would go in and out of the lagoon from our bungalow deck, “This must be the largest swimming pool in the world!” Fish were not as plentiful in this water, about five feet deep, in part we think because the water was absolutely clear and thus provided no protection.
With all the research I had done, I still couldn’t be sure that I was hitting all the high marks, so I did something I rarely do–I hired a consultant. Kleon Howe is actually a travel planner who specializes in the South Pacific, and he will consult for an hourly fee. He has the kind of knowledge our writers have in their respective cities. When you have a preference for sunset view over sunrise, Kleon knows which rooms at which hotels to choose. If you do the Intercontinental thing, sign up for the Ambassador program. For $200 you’ll get room upgrades (this can make a big difference in terms of view), but most importantly a free weekend night, which in Tahiti will save you at least $600. Perfect temperature for both air and water, world-class spas, world’s largest swimming pool, great snorkeling, spectacular views–what does timing matter? We had planned to go in late May, but illness pushed the trip back to our only available time, early July. July happens to be heiva (festival) time, a month-long celebration featuring singing and dance competitions. This is not like Carnival in Rio or Trinidad; there is no parading in the streets. The performances are usually on the weekends and, unlike the shows at Tiki Village in Moorea or at many of the hotels, these feel like the real deal, involving over 100 performers in a typical dance group. While the main events are in a small stadium in Papeete, there are also performances on some of the islands, like Bora Bora, where the show took place on a sandy soccer field.
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Although I’ve been publishing, editing, and writing travel advice for more than 10 years, I still appreciate the occasional reminder as to why I do it, and in particular, why we at Night+Day Guides say, “Right Place. Right Time. It Matters.”
Who am I to argue with Arthur Frommer, who has named Moorea the most beautiful island in the world? The 45-minute drive from the ferry terminal to the 
Don’t go to Tahiti for the food. For the most part it is fish and it is good, but nothing to write home about. Two restaurants add a certain fun factor: Le Coco’s in Moorea, with its octopus curry served in a coconut and skewers of ten jumbo shrimp; and touristy 
The traditional dance is often compared to hula, but these women shake their hips at a speed that might be considered illegal. (In fact, it was abolished by British missionaries in the early 19th century.) There are no sets, and the only thing elaborate is the feathered costumes. For the best description of the program I’ve found, visit 
