Alan Davis

As executive editor of the Night+Day series, and as someone who has spent a lifetime in travel, I certainly influence our selections
and recommendations.
But our guidebooks reflect a collaborative effort involving local writers and experienced editors. So I welcome this opportunity to share my very personal views and experiences. I sincerely
hope you find them
somewhere between
interesting and extremely helpful (life-altering is probably too much to ask).
As always, I very much welcome your comments.
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Alan’s View

July 2010

On The Road: Tahiti

Although I’ve been publishing, editing, and writing travel advice for more than 10 years, I still appreciate the occasional reminder as to why I do it, and in particular, why we at Night+Day Guides say, “Right Place. Right Time. It Matters.”

Having just come back from Tahiti, which is both the largest island in French Polynesia and shorthand for Bora Bora and Moorea, the two nearby islands that make this part of the world bucket-list worthy, I can see why people might think that time, or timing, is irrelevant. After all, this is paradise, beautiful any time of year, right?

Papeete, on the island of Tahiti, is the capital and only real city in French Polynesia; there are 8-hour nonstop flights from Los Angeles on Air France and Air Tahiti Nui. It is south of, and in the same time zone, as Hawaii. Papeete is the governmental, commercial, and population center of the islands, and most certainly not paradise. However, you will get to check it out for yourself, because it is nearly impossible to make connecting flights in either direction between the U.S. and Moorea or Bora Bora without stopping overnight there.

Moorea, an easy 30-minute ferry ride from Papeete, is visible from Tahiti. This view of what many believe to be South Pacific’s Bali Hai is perhaps the highlight of a stay at the Intercontinental Tahiti, the only truly first class hotel on the island. The ferry is a short walk from Papeete’s daily market, a colorful display of fish, fruit, handicrafts, and pearls.

Who am I to argue with Arthur Frommer, who has named Moorea the most beautiful island in the world? The 45-minute drive from the ferry terminal to the Intercontinental Moorea was breathtaking, in part because we arrived just before sunset. There are several hotel choices in Moorea, but again the IC stands out–especially now, since it has just been remodeled, including a new pool and beach area and stunning bungalows and villas. You pay dearly for an “overwater premium bungalow,” but I have not experienced anything that compares. You look out on water, behind you is beautiful Mount Rotui, and beneath you are some of the world’s most gorgeous fish. If you want to know what it would be like to swim in an aquarium, step right off your deck into the water. Two nights were not enough here.

If you didn’t know better you’d think we were on an Intercontinental fam tour (you know, the freebies they give to tour operators and travel writers), because after the one-hour flight to Bora Bora and a 30-minute boat ride (all hotel transfers are by boat on this island), we arrived at the Intercontinental Bora Bora Thalasso. In Bora Bora the IC has stiff competition from the St. Regis, the Four Seasons, Hotel Bora Bora (Aman), Bora Bora Lagoon Resort (Orient Express), Pearl, Le Meridien, Sofitel, and even Hilton. I was only able to personally tour the St. Regis, but I ended my stay confident that the IC was at least equal to all the others. The formula for all the hotels is pretty much the same: built on motus (small islands), with overwater bungalows, a formal and a casual restaurant, bar, pool, beach, spa, and the extraordinary lagoon and view of Mount Otemanu centered on the main island.

As my wife kept saying, as we would go in and out of the lagoon from our bungalow deck, “This must be the largest swimming pool in the world!” Fish were not as plentiful in this water, about five feet deep, in part we think because the water was absolutely clear and thus provided no protection.

Don’t go to Tahiti for the food. For the most part it is fish and it is good, but nothing to write home about. Two restaurants add a certain fun factor: Le Coco’s in Moorea, with its octopus curry served in a coconut and skewers of ten jumbo shrimp; and touristy Bloody Mary’s in Bora Bora begins with a description of the great selection of very fresh fish and meats available and set out on an ice-packed display. All else about the meal is pretty basic, including the sand floor. On the other end of the spectrum is Lagoon Restaurant by Jean-Georges at the St. Regis Bora Bora. Unless you are staying at the hotel, the logistics are tricky—you’ll need a water taxi, which will cost around $50, and the property limits access to non-guests. Given that everything in Moorea and Bora Bora is expensive, the taxi cost shouldn’t stop you from enjoying an incredible meal. We chose haura (local swordfish) tartare and bacon-wrapped shrimp, despite seeing caramelized foie gras with lychee and passion fruit on the menu. The uravena (oilfish) entrée must have jumped out of the lagoon through some sort of heating device right onto our plates.

With all the research I had done, I still couldn’t be sure that I was hitting all the high marks, so I did something I rarely do–I hired a consultant. Kleon Howe is actually a travel planner who specializes in the South Pacific, and he will consult for an hourly fee. He has the kind of knowledge our writers have in their respective cities. When you have a preference for sunset view over sunrise, Kleon knows which rooms at which hotels to choose.

If you do the Intercontinental thing, sign up for the Ambassador program. For $200 you’ll get room upgrades (this can make a big difference in terms of view), but most importantly a free weekend night, which in Tahiti will save you at least $600.

Perfect temperature for both air and water, world-class spas, world’s largest swimming pool, great snorkeling, spectacular views–what does timing matter?

We had planned to go in late May, but illness pushed the trip back to our only available time, early July. July happens to be heiva (festival) time, a month-long celebration featuring singing and dance competitions. This is not like Carnival in Rio or Trinidad; there is no parading in the streets. The performances are usually on the weekends and, unlike the shows at Tiki Village in Moorea or at many of the hotels, these feel like the real deal, involving over 100 performers in a typical dance group. While the main events are in a small stadium in Papeete, there are also performances on some of the islands, like Bora Bora, where the show took place on a sandy soccer field.

The traditional dance is often compared to hula, but these women shake their hips at a speed that might be considered illegal. (In fact, it was abolished by British missionaries in the early 19th century.) There are no sets, and the only thing elaborate is the feathered costumes. For the best description of the program I’ve found, visit thetahititraveler.com. These spectacles are emotional, exhilarating, sexy, fun, and unique. It’s an experience you can only get in Tahiti in July. “Right Place. Right Time. It Matters.”

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July

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