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Alan’s View

July 2009

ASD Picks: 3 Airline Booking Tips

The airline-versus-consumer game is a never-ending one. But with these few tips, you should be one step ahead of the game, or at least keeping pace with it.

1. You may be able to cancel a discount ticket without penalty. (Winner: Delta)

If you’ve ever been in a position to purchase anything other than a fully-refundable ticket you’ve probably been faced with a familiar situation: You want to lock in an unbelievable price or that aisle seat toward the front of the plane, but you can’t commit 100% to your itinerary. Good news! Enlightened airlines (and here I exclude American) allow a certain period of time to cancel without penalty. The following listings are the most up-to-date guidelines for eight U.S. carriers (AA, AS, CO, DL, JBU, SW, VX, UA):

Midnight the next day: Delta
24 hours from ticketing: Alaska, Continental, Southwest, Virgin America, & United.
2 hours from ticketing: JetBlue
No-no: American

2. You may be able to get a refund if you’ve purchased a ticket
and the airfare is subsequently reduced. (Winner: Alaska)

In the old days it seemed that purchasing a ticket early was a money-saver. Nowadays that isn’t always the case. Several years ago I purchased a ticket to Hawai’i, only to discover weeks later that the airfare for that very same flight had been reduced. I’m an experienced traveler, and yet I did nothing about it. When I found myself in similar circumstances the following year, I asked the airline if it would refund the difference. To my surprise the answer was “yes,” an answer, I have learned, not at all uncommon among carriers. Up until May, United led the field, giving a full refund of the difference, albeit in the form of a travel voucher. However, United has now joined other airlines in applying the change fee ($150) against the refund. Here’s what the other airlines are doing:

Voucher for full amount of difference (if the fare drops within 90 days): Alaska
Change fee of $150 applies: American, Continental, Delta, and United.
No refund: JetBlue, Southwest (although most fares are fully refundable),
                    & Virgin America.

3. Coach may be better than business class.

My tolerance for pain when flying is six hours. If a flight is longer than that, I do everything possible to upgrade to business/first class. But when flying with a companion on shorter flights, I’d aim to find 3-across seating, preferably in economy plus (or Premium Economy) seats, and take the window and aisle seats. In such circumstances, my bet is on an empty middle seat which I win more than half the time these days. With the armrests raised the extra space is something akin to business class seating, with more actual workspace (two meal-trays worth), and at considerably less cost. If you lose the bet and the middle seat is occupied, you can always opt to switch seats with the person stuck in the middle seat.

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On the Road: The City Slicker’s Wild West

Whether inspired by Billy Crystal’s film, the fabulous City Slickers, or by some deeper sense of America’s cultural heritage, I’ve always wanted to see the “wild” west. Call it my own personal manifest destiny. But the notion of roughing it in a tent or spending a week in a Super 8 has always put the “WHOA” in this city slicker’s plans. A few weeks ago, however, I had the opportunity to embark on a first-class tour of a small area of that once-rugged

territory—the northwestern corner of Wyoming. Herewith is the abbreviated itinerary for a perfect 10-day trip.

Jackson Hole – Yellowstone – Cody – Dude Ranch

Days 1–3 Jackson Hole

Start at the all-“suite” Amangani, Aman Resorts’ only US property, located just outside the town of Jackson and just 20 minutes from Jackson Hole airport. The hotel’s redwood building, spacious rooms, and mountain views are all beautiful, but the standout feature here is the service. (Tip: For a room with a view of the stunning Teton Mountains, be sure to ask for a deluxe corner room, otherwise you’ll be overlooking the beautiful Snake River Valley.)

Jackson Hole is primarily a winter and summer tourist destination, one where daylight is more prized than night, and where sports and nature enthusiasts take full advantage of the area’s rivers, lakes, and mountains. In fact, Jackson Hole may very well be the nation’s capital for extreme sports. For a glimpse of the crazies in action (as well as an overview of the area’s diverse wildlife), check out Jackson Hole to the Max, the promotional film running every hour at Jackson’s Pink Garter Theatre.

The center of Old Jackson is an attractive square, featuring Western shops, art galleries, and a tourist stagecoach that makes the rounds. Outside town, visitors break from hiking, fishing, skiing, boating, or touring Teton National Park to visit the National Museum of Wildlife Art.

The wealthy residents of Jackson Hole, both full- and part-timers alike, must love to cook (or maybe they all hire private chefs), because the restaurants are nothing to email home about. Your better options include the Amangani, Jenny Lake Lodge, Rusty Parrot, and Snake River Grill. As for nightlife, that’s equally limited. The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar offers great music most nights, but otherwise you might consider sipping your nightcap in front of the hotel fireplace.

Days 4–5 Yellowstone

Even with all the opportunities for scenic overlooks and panoramic views, you should be able to make it to Lake Yellowstone Hotel in time for lunch. The food is better-than-average park fare, the ambiance early 20th century. Circle back to Old Faithful (about two hours) for a late afternoon eruption, then overnight at the Old Faithful Inn, an early-1900s lodge just steps away from the geysers. (Tip: There are several floors of geyser-facing rooms, but trees tend to block the view of all but the third floor. The hotel’s buffet dinner is more about ambiance than culinary execution.)

After breakfast, take the two-hour drive through Madison and Norris to Canyon Lodge for a coffee break. At this point in your trip you should already have noticed the avidity of those park-goers on the lookout for wildlife. If there’s any sight to see, cars snarl into traffic as everyone waits on the bear, the bison, the elk, or whatever other animal it might be, to emerge from the woods. It’s a scene reminiscent of being on safari.

Just south of Canyon are views of what I consider two of the most beautiful sights in all of Yellowstone, if not the world. Behold the Upper and Lower Falls from every angle and overlook from both the South Rim and the North Rim. Next, drive the hour to Roosevelt Lodge for a late lunch. Allow two hours for driving to Mammoth Hot Springs and checking out the “terraces.”

In terms of accommodations, night five will probably be the roughest of the trip. Since you’ll be heading east the next morning, it would be convenient to eat and sleep at either Mammoth Hotel or Roosevelt Lodge (if you don’t mind backtracking). But for something a little different, continue on to Gardiner (a relic of a town) and stay in a serviceable room overlooking the Yellowstone River at Absaroka Lodge. Dinner, too, could be iffy, so stick to either Antler Pub & Grill or Yellowstone Mine Restaurant.

Day 6 Yellowstone to Cody

Retrace your steps to Roosevelt and head east out of the park toward Cooke City. This pretty, one-hour drive through the Lamar Valley supposedly provides the best wildlife-viewing opportunities. (Full confession: we didn’t see much at all.) The Beartooth Highway, from Cooke City to Red Lodge, climbs over 10,000 feet and is a scenic gem. The one-hour drive can easily become three hours if there’s enough room on your camera’s memory card. Have lunch at Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen & Wine Bar before heading off to Cody.

The main street of Cody has the feel of old Jackson but offers very little in the way of sophistication. Nonetheless, Cody’s Western stores are first-rate, especially the Custom Cowboy Shop and Wayne’s Boot Shop.

At 6pm, the town stages a gunfight outside the historic Irma Hotel. Yes, it’s cheesy, but grab a beer and take a load off for 45 minutes before sitting down to the buffet in the Irma’s dining room (filled wall-to-wall with Buffalo Bill photographs and memorabilia). Or if a buffet isn’t your thing, grub down at the Wyoming Rib and Chop House.

Chances are you’ll be a little late for the 8pm start of the Cody Nite Rodeo, just a 15-minute drive away. No matter. You’ll see plenty during this two-hour showcase of riding and roping, which plays every night during the three summer months., Parking is easy and free, and there’s no shortage of seats. (Tip: Once you enter the arena, circle around to find seating in the Buzzard’s Roost; there you can watch the cowboys mount the bulls.) From Cody Stampede Park it’s about a three-minute drive to The Cody, by far the most comfortable hotel in town.

Day 7 Cody to the Hideout

The Buffalo Bill Historical Center opens early (8am in summer), which is a good thing because you’ll want to spend as much time here as you can. The center is actually five separate Western museums: the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Plains Indian Museum, the Draper Museum of Natural History, the Whitney Gallery of Western Art, and the Cody Firearms Museum. You can easily spend an hour or two exploring each. (Tip: There’s a very good café.)

It’s time to leave town and make the one-hour drive (with only one stoplight) through Greybull to Shell and the Hideout at Flitner Ranch. I’ve only experienced a few dude ranches in my time, but it’s hard to imagine a better one than this. Located at the foot of the Bighorn Mountains, the Hideout has it all: Its public areas are housed in a contemporary log building surrounded by beautiful landscaping; its cabins are clean, comfortable, and well appointed; its food, gourmet ranch. Equally impressive are the horses and riding opportunities offered here. Still, it’s the people that most impress, and by people I mean the cowboys and cowgirls, the service staff, and the folks who run the place (and who frequently share the trails and the dining table with you)—owners Paula and David Flitner and Marijn and Peter De Cabooter.

Days 8–10 The Hideout

The Hideout is all-inclusive. Most guests choose a 7-night package (required during peak season), but we chose the 4-night package, and our routine went something like this: breakfast, activity, lunch, activity, cocktails, dinner. Meals are set (though requests are accommodated), but over our 4 days at the Hideout we never once tasted the same dish twice.

Our first morning was given over to a riding orientation, during which we were matched with and fitted to our horses. Then the choice was ours: a half-day or full day riding, time spent fishing, or venturing out for a little dinosaur hunting. The Hideout is a working ranch, which means, depending on the season and the need, there’s always the chance you could be herding cattle. Does Billy Crystal come to mind? Giddyap…

Luckily, your flight home from Cody makes a stop in either Salt Lake City or Denver—just enough time on the ground to transition from heaven back to real life.

Last Word: Malaise-y Hazy Crazy Days of Summer

I write this as I look out on another gloomy San Francisco day. Officially it’s summer, but you’d never know it judging by the weather. Those Lazy Hazy Crazy Days of Summer (how did that song ever become a hit?) seem a thing of the past, and not just for lack of sun. My sense is that although we’re no longer standing at the precipice of impending financial disaster, the impact of last fall’s economic crisis lingers on.

Though it’ll be months—maybe even years—before we grasp the final tallies, I suspect the financial toll on the travel industry this summer will be record-breaking. Airline discounts to Europe in summer? Reasonable rates at New York hotels? Gourmet chefs offering meals at diner prices or opening up diners of their own? With unbelievable bargains all the rage, the world of travel and leisure seems turned upside down. The SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills (which also happens to be one of my favorite hotels) has nearly a dozen offers on its website, including special deals for California residents, AAA members, and AARP members (does that leave out anybody). Each of these is a different way of offering the same 20–35% discount, depending on the length of stay.

I suspect there’s more than just weather and financial trauma affecting the travel market. Perhaps it has to do with what I call the “No-bama” effect. Nearly a year ago there began a national surge of hope as Obama’s campaign picked up steam. From the time of his election to the day of his inauguration, Obama’s speeches engendered real hope; they raised the country’s (and the world’s) expectations. Then, BOOM! Political and financial realities being what they are, once-ambitious plans were delayed or watered down. Politicians, as they usually do, proved incapable of working toward common goals, choosing instead to nitpick their way into the news. As a result, summer travel plans are not driven by hope but malaise.

For many of us, summer has always meant getting away to that special place. For me, summer frequently meant one of two favorite destinations—St. Tropez or Skiathos. Both places captured for me the essence of summer—gorgeous beaches, sumptuous meals, fabulous people, restless nightlife, and music. These are party towns!

St. Tropez exudes high-class exclusivity, but the almost-mandatory routine is shared by all: a morning stroll through town either shopping, checking out the yachts, or, if it’s Tuesday or Saturday, exploring the markets; lunch on the beach at Club 55 (an absolute must!); afternoon drinks a stroll away at the wild La Voile Rouge; dinner at kinky Villa Romana, followed by dancing at Les Caves du Roy, the high-rent disco in the Byblos Hotel (if you stay at the hotel you are assured entry). A tough day. And you have to do it all over again the next day!

Despite the fact that portions of the film Mamma Mia were shot in Skiathos, one of the Sporades islands and a two-hour boat ride east of the Greek mainland, the tourist trade has been slow to take root. That’s because Skiathos is much more low-key than St. Tropez: no markets to speak of; no enormous yachts sized to intimidate; no people dressed to impress; no happening hotels (although Aegean Suites is the nicest). Still, it’s fun to walk the whitewashed town, to sip coffee with an eye on the activity (people and boats) at the harbor, to stroll one of Skiathos’ 70 beaches, or to hire a captained sailboat for the day. Have a very late dinner (fish, fish, or fish) before heading out to the bars and clubs that light up the island post-midnight.

This is where I was going to write how I’m in no mood to party, how there’ll be no French Riviera or Greece for me this year. But the sun, which I haven’t seen in quite some time, is emerging, and with it some hope. And besides, isn’t summer a time to get away from our weariness over the world’s troubles (and do it at discounted prices)?

I, and all of us at Pulse Guides, wish you a wonderful summer!