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Alan’s View

May 2010

On The Road: Machu Picchu, The Peak Experience

As some of you know, I have somewhat of an obsession with peak experiences. Not of the proving-how-macho-I-am variety, like skydiving or climbing Mount Everest, but more of the it-doesn’t-get-better-than-this kind.

Last night I was having dinner with friends, talking about peak travel experiences like Machu Picchu, and they said they didn’t have an interest in going. I had to stop and ask myself why I found that so surprising. Suddenly it dawned on me: Machu Picchu is the most impressive site I have ever been to! Admittedly, I have a lot more of this world to see, but looking back on all of my travels I can’t think of a place that was as magnificent. And something no one should miss.

If this prompts you to start making your own list of wonders of the world, here’s some guidance. According to Wikipedia, the first WOW (Wonders of the World) list was created by travel writers in B.C.E. times now entitled  “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.” (I assume it was not called “ancient” then.) Basically, that list promotes Mediterranean cruises: Colossus of Rhodes, Pyramids, Ephesus, etc. “Wonders of the Medieval World” set the stage for 20th century adventurers: Stonehenge, Coliseum, Great Wall of China, Taj Mahal and so on. But it wasn’t until the New7Wonders Foundation conducted a massive world poll a few years ago that Machu Picchu made the list, one with which I would have little argument. You will also find the Great Wall of China, Petra, Christ the Redeemer (Rio), Chichen Itza, Coliseum, and the Taj Mahal. They added the Great Pyramid of Giza, the last remaining monument from the original list, and honorary mentions for the Acropolis, Eiffel Tower, and Easter Island.

What distinguishes Machu Picchu is its setting. At 8,000 feet above sea level it takes your breath away, literally (beware of altitude sickness) and figuratively. Machu Picchu (about 43 miles from the closest airport city Cuzco) sits on a mountain ridge surrounded by the Andes mountain range and overlooking the Urubamba (Sacred) Valley. It is remarkable, both for its size and engineering of approximately 200 stone buildings—and for how well-preserved it is after more than 500 years.

There are only two ways to enter Machu Picchu—via a strenuous multi-day hike along the 500-year-old Inca trail, or a train to Aguas Calientes and then a bus up the switchback road to the site. In January, just two months after we were in Machu Picchu, a flood wiped out the railroad tracks and a good part of the town of Aguas Calientes. A few thousand tourists had to be evacuated out of  Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. Best not to plan to go before September 2010, by which time hospitality services should be fully functional. Try to avoid the rainy season from December through March. If you do, you can generally expect mild temperatures during the day and cool weather at night; the deeper into the dry season you go, the better your odds for catching a perfect sunrise or sunset.

Typically, people fly to Lima, Peru’s capital, and connect to Cuzco, do a full day tour of the Sacred Valley, and then train from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes and back. There are nonstop flights from the U.S. to Lima (LIM) from LA, New York, Miami, Atlanta, Houston, and Dallas, primarily using LAN and American Airlines. With the helpful advice of Stanford Travel Systems, tour operators for Ecuador and Peru, we came up with a better plan, along with a few highlights. Most importantly, include Quito on your itinerary, as it is an important and fascinating piece of the Inca story. And speaking of tour operators (who can make the arrangements for you), tour guides and drivers in Quito and Peru are relatively inexpensive and tremendously helpful.

Quito – Lima – Sacred Valley – Machu Picchu – Cuzco

Day 1 Fri: Fly to Quito, Ecuador, from the same gateway cities as above, but with less frequent flights. You’ll likely arrive just in time for good night’s sleep. While staying in old town might be more authentic, you may prefer to stay in a modern high-rise, such as the JW Marriott, for comfort.

Day 2 Sat: Head out to Otavalo market, the biggest and best of the Inca markets. If you enjoy the buzz of crowds wending their way through the goods-filled streets, as I do, this is the day to go. It’s quieter on other days of the week. Be sure to stop for lunch at Hacienda Pinsaqui. On the way back visit Museo Inti Nan (better than the “official” La Mitad del Mundo) for a fun lesson in what it means to be on the equator.

Day 3 Sun: Do a half- or full-day tour of Quito, depending on your interests and energy level. Remember that Quito is at an altitude of over 9,000 feet. Treat yourself to a wonderful evening at Zazu, a contemporary restaurant and lounge.

Day 4 Mon: Fly to Lima in time for afternoon tour of city, and then have what will probably be the best meal of your trip at Astrid & Gaston. As with Quito, the better hotel choices are modern high-rises such as Miraflores Park Hotel.

Day 5 Tue: Fly to Cuzco and immediately head to the Sacred Valley. Depending on your flight, you might have time for a stop in Pisac before lunch at Casa de Orihuela. After lunch, time permitting, visit Ollantaytambo before catching the Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes (1 1/2 hours). Have dinner and stay overnight at Sumaq or Inkaterra Hotel, both excellent.

Day 6 Wed: What time you wake up this morning depends on what kind of risk-taker you are. You’ll want to see Machu Picchu at sunrise, and you could do it tomorrow—unless it is overcast then. Personally, I’d stay in bed, take a mid-morning bus up, have a light lunch at Sanctuary Lodge (and check in—it is the only hotel at Machu Picchu, and only a few steps from the park’s entrance), and then spend the afternoon at the Machu Picchu site. But here’s the most important piece of advice I can give you. Even if you’ve gone back to your hotel mid-afternoon, re-enter the site just before it closes and head up to the Guard House, the tallest point within the site. At closing, security guards will start to encourage you to leave, but stall as long as you possibly can to catch sunset, a truly unbelievable sight. Then enjoy a wonderful dinner at the hotel.

Day 7 Thu: At sunrise, look outside your bedroom window, and if it’s clear, head back up to the Guard House for another awesome view. Late morning take the bus back down to the train and have a driver take you from Ollantaytambo back to Cuzco. Have dinner and stay overnight at the hotel highlight of the trip, Monasterio. Note: Some may prefer to spend the day at Machu Picchu and take the Orient Express Hiram Bingham train, a four-hour deluxe journey that includes dinner­ on the way back to Cuzco.

Day 8 Fri: Unfortunately, the last flight to Lima departs in late afternoon to connect to your flight home, which in most cases means a long layover in Lima. But it leaves you most of the day to tour Cuzco (a visit to Sacsayhuaman will be one of the highlights of your trip) and shop. In fact, there is enough to see in and around this most-attractive city that you might want to stay another day.